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Broadcloth is a dense, , historically made of . The defining characteristic of broadcloth is not its finished width but the fact that it was woven much wider (typically 50 to 75% wider than its finished width) and then heavily milled (traditionally the cloth was worked by heavy wooden in hot soapy water) in order to shrink it to the required width. The effect of the milling process is to draw the yarns much closer together than could be achieved in the loom and allow the individual fibres of the wool to bind together in a felting process, which results in a dense, blind face cloth with a stiff drape which is highly weather-resistant, hard wearing and capable of taking a cut edge without the need for being hemmed.

The manufacturing process originates from , the type of cloth was also made in and several parts of at the end of the period. The raw material was short staple wool, and spun into and then woven on a broad to produce cloth 1.75 yards wide. It was then , usually in a . When fulled, the fibres of the cloth would together, resulting in a smooth surface.


Etymology
The word "broadcloth" was originally used just as an to "", but later came to mean a particular type of cloth.Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "" (free fulltext), from the Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 01 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 719; lines two and three from end. The 1909 Webster's dictionary (as reprinted in 1913) defines broadcloth as "A fine smooth-faced woolen cloth for men's garments, usually of double width (i.e., a yard and a half );—so called in distinction from woolens three quarters of a yard wide. ", thus giving both the old breadth-based distinction and the newer definition based on the type of cloth.

Since the early 1920s, the American market has used the term "broadcloth" to describe a plain-woven, usually mercerised fabric woven with a rib and a slightly heavier filling yarn, used for shirt-making, made from cotton or a polyester-and-cotton blend. This fabric was introduced in the early 1920s as an import from the United Kingdom, where it was called , but it was arbitrarily renamed "broadcloth" as it was thought that "poplin" had connotations of heaviness. Another version of this fabric, woven in rayon or polyester-and-rayon, is called fuji.

(2013). 9781609015350, A&C Black. .

The Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States uses the unambiguous terms "broadwoven" and "", with a breadth cutoff of 30 centimeters (about 12 inches). By this definition, the US government estimates that 70–75% of all cloth production globally, by weight, is broadwoven.Freund, Kimberlie and Norton, Marjorie J.T., , USITC Publication 3410: 4 . Free fulltext.


Historical manufacture
Broadcloth ( Laken) was produced in the Duchy of Brabant (now ) from the 11th century and throughout the medieval period.

After 1400 in (now ) became the most important place for broadcloth industry in Europe. There for the first time the production became industrialised. This means that the production process didn't take place entirely in one single factory anymore but according to a precise task allocation, where in several stages intermediate goods were produced. The entire process was strictly supervised, resulting in a constantly high quality, making Leiden broadcloth very popular. In 1417 the decided that only approved broadcloth from Leiden was to be sold. From 1500 competition from other parts of Europe, especially England, grew and Leiden lost its leading role. In Italy became an important center of broadcloth industry.

Around 1500, broadcloth was made in a number of districts of England, including and in southern , the Clothing District (, , east —sometimes with adjacent areas), at Worcester, , Cranbrook in Kent and some other places.

This was the best English cloth, and large quantities were exported by the merchants of the Company of Merchant Adventurers of London, principally to as white ( i.e. undyed) cloth. It was finished and in , and then marketed throughout northern . The cloths might be short (24 yards long) or long (30 yards long).

The raw material for broadcloth from Worcester was wool from the border counties of and , known as Lemster ( i.e. ) wool. That for the came from the . In both cases, the high quality was the result of the comparatively poor pasture, which (probably aided by selective breeding) led the sheep to grow wool with the desired qualities.

English exports of broadcloth reached their highest level in the mid 16th century, after which some regions began producing other kinds of cloth. Difficulties were encountered in export markets in the mid-1610s, partly due to currency difficulties in eastern Europe, and partly to the ill-conceived . Broadcloth production, thus declined in the 17th century.

Worcester remained a centre for the production of white broadcloth. Other areas, such as and parts of the Cotswolds started to produce similar cloth, known as 'Worcesters'. The market suffered major setback in the 18th century, when the trade of the with was obstructed by competition. From this time, the production of broadcloth lost its importance.B. Supple, Commercial crisis and change in England 1602–1642: a study in the instability of a mercantile economy (1959); J. de L. Mann, ''The cloth industry in the West of England (Oxford 1971).


Types of broadcloth
  • Banat—Wool broadcloth made in India.
    (2013). 9781609015350, A&C Black. .
  • Bridgwater (1450–1500)—A lighter weight broadcloth made in England, Scotland and Wales.
    (2013). 9781609015350, A&C Black. .
  • Castor—Overcoat-weight woolen broadcloth.
    (2013). 9781609015350, A&C Black. .
  • Cealtar ()—thick grey broadcloth
  • Dunster (early 14th century)—broadcloth specifically made in
  • Georgian cloth (c.1806)
    (2013). 9781609015350, A&C Black. .
  • Haberjet ()—A coarse wool broadcloth, made in England during the Medieval period, and associated with .
    (2013). 9781609015350, A&C Black. .
  • Habit cloth—British-made fine wool broadcloth typically used for women's .
  • Lady's cloth—lighter weight broadcloth, originally made in light shades.
    (2013). 9781609015350, A&C Black. .
  • Poole cloth (19th century onwards)—A broadcloth with a clear finish, named after the tailoring establishment Henry Poole & Co (founded 1806).
    (2013). 9781609015350, A&C Black. .
  • Suclat—A European-made cotton broadcloth popular in the East Indian market.
    (2013). 9781609015350, A&C Black. .
  • Superfine (18th century onwards)— broadcloth used for men's tailoring.
  • Tami—Chinese-made broadcloth.
    (2013). 9781609015350, A&C Black. .
  • Taunton (16th century)—Originally made in , and available in medium or coarse grade, with a weight of 11oz. per yard, which was fixed by law.
    (2013). 9781609015350, A&C Black. .
  • Tavestock (c. 1200–1350)
  • Western dozen (16th century)—Alternative name for tavestock.


Modern uses
File:Vadmal-Jacke.jpg|Broadcloth coat, 2009 File:Vadmal-Detail.jpg|Close-up of broadcloth surface, with corner of pocket and end of drawstring for scale, photographed at 6× magnification Wool broadcloth with its felted, velvet-like feel, has been used to upholster furniture and car interiors.
(2025). 9781613253311, CarTech.


Notes

Bibliography

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